You have to remember that they are trying to negotiate you into paying more money just as you are trying to negotiate paying less. Here are some of the things that you can expect to hear from them.
1. “These cars are flying off of the lot. It may not be available for the same deal tomorrow”. (Threaten to leave and they will ease up and try to change their strategy)
2. “This deal is only good for today. If you come back tomorrow I can’t guarantee that the deal will be the same”.
3. “I’m an honest man. Look at how many cars I’ve sold this weekend” (This is where he will show you his list of sold cars. If he does this, then tell him that he doesn’t need your money).
4. “I hate to tell you this but I have another offer on the table from a man that is willing to pay more money than this. I am just waiting for his paperwork to be returned”.
(Tell him that if he promised the car to someone else, you don’t want to step on someone else’s toes and that you should leave then).
5. “To cover the overhead costs, we have paid $13,000 for this car (Just check your paperwork in your folder and prove them wrong). What Kind of Buyer Am I?
If you want to save money while you are negotiating you should negotiate from the dealer cost up and not from the MSRP down.
You just need to remember that dealer cost is not the same as the factory invoice.
Some dealerships refuse to haggle over the cost of a car. Once you make your opening offer you should never accept anything higher than that, as far as costs go. If the dealership that you go to doesn’t haggle, don’t sweat it, some other dealership will.
The reason some dealerships refuse to haggle is because they want to add extra fees to the MSRP. You will need to decide what kind of buyer you are in order to get a negotiating stance.
You do not want to set yourself up as a monthly payment buyer either because that is a guaranteed way for you to get a higher payment fee. They will offer to take a little bit off of the MSRP. They will then ask you what you are looking to pay each month; this is where the extra money comes in.
Cash buyers are generally asked, “Are willing to pay each month?” Tell them it doesn’t matter because you are looking for an even division on the cost of the car, not to haggle over the monthly cost. Tell them that you are looking to haggle over the cost of the car, not the monthly payments. This is often used for cash buyers.
If a finance manager tries to get you to report your payment method before you have decided upon purchasing the car, don’t get sucked into it. The method of payment doesn’t matter unless you are deciding upon purchasing the car. Finance managers ask so that that they can best decide how to screw you over.
Some dealers will offer you to give you a better deal if you finance your car through them. I can guarantee that this will not be the case. Of course the worst thing that you could be an impulse buyer. An impulse buyer is just another word for “victim.” Impulse buyers can often get sucked into the “hot” car of the moment and usually get taken for as much as $10,000. A dealer can see this buyer coming from a mile away.
If a dealer approaches you about the “hot” car tell him that you are not interested because it will not be worth the money next year as the new “hot” car will be out by then. You don’t want to buy a car that is in demand because it is the easiest way for a dealership to mark up the prices. The MSRP always looks low, but it is the extras and monthly payments that will lose you money. Remember the resale value of the car doesn’t change no matter how much money you bought the car for. It still depreciates in value from the factory invoice.
Mia LaCron is the founder of How-To-Buy-A-Car.info - http://www.how-to-buy-a-car.info - devoted to helping individuals buy the right car for them at the absoulute best possible prices.
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